Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry: Tunisia January 6, 1939 

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could [learned] be of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.

Tunisia January 6, 1939 

Located a good hotel up in the hills with a gorgeous view of the harbor and coast, (a tropical garden, a tennis court,) to which we moved at lunchtime. In the morning I had written the hotel at Posada, about my ring which I had lost at Posada, and I am hoping for the best. The Hotel Bellevue to which we transferred, was an old Moorish palace and is beautifully furnished with old rugs and hangings. The floors over here are always tile and cold. The owners, through a series of luck, accumulated a good fortune, but they are very common people. She yells at the least thing like a charwoman. The servants get no pay except for the 10% tips, and if she finds out they’ve been tipped extra she doesn’t give them their full share of their meager 10% tips. They are as stingy and miserly as two people can be. It makes me quite indignant for the lovely people here who have to suffer such injustices, especially the one-armed man at the desk. He was a son of the vice consul in New York and speaks excellent English. However he is smart and is getting out. In the afternoon Mr. Abry and I hiked up on a hill and part just behind the hotel and watched the battleship carrying Daladier leave the harbor amid the shrill siren whistles. Wrote the rest of the day.

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry: Tunisia January 5, 1939

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 5, 1939

Before leaving Biskra, we all wandered around that date market which was now in full swing. Natives jostled each other in the crowded street. Everyone was trying to sell us something and I don’t know how many little knives and daggers we bought from one little man.

Caravans of camels with huge wool slacks of dates were being unloaded and in one caravan a tiny baby camel was being pushed along. He was the most adorable soft fuzzy gray long-legged creature I ever saw and all of us followed him out of town and had our pictures taken with him (after we had paid the Arab) and watched him get “goodies” from his mama. I don’t know of any funnier looking animal than camel. I laugh every time I see one.

They have the silliest expressions. With their noses in the air they condescend to heartily looked down on you from under the longest eyelashes imaginable. They nonchalantly chew their cud with a chew on one side and then a chew on the other side, and it’s a big swing from side to side. The way the natives load the poor beasts down is a crime and a shame. It takes two men a hard struggle to put one bag of dates on a camel, but the poor camel has to carry two. Later on we heard a camel noisily refusing to budge or carry his load. He just lay down by the road. The natives took the bags off and then put them back on and the camel had to go on.

Out by some sand dunes we had great sport riding camels. I was never aware of the fact that camels are so noisy. The poor beast that was made to kneel in order for me to hop on was most thorough in grumbling and showing his disapproval of carrying my deadweight around. It was finally persuaded to let me sit on a most comfortable cushion-like saddle and the camels started to rise. His posterior gets up first, and I was tipped in such a position I thought surely I would fall on the poor animal’s neck. However, I managed to stick on and we were away. The camels walk swings his hump which swings the rider round and round and up and down all at the same time, and while many people get camel sick from the motion, our ride was short and so hilarious that we felt no qualms. Mr. Abry got smart and told the man to make the camels run, and we bounced around in a terrific rate, but it was loads of fun. Our dinner was of nothing but describe dates, which are heavenly fruits of sweetness and stickiness. After the first 50 I was a little tired of them. All afternoon in the desolate desert region from Biskra to Bou Saada, we passed hundreds of camels in caravans and each camel had the same silly haughty expression for us. We had tea in Bou Saada with an Arab gentleman who spoke English, and on leaving were accosted by several shepherds with fox pelts. Since they were inexpensive, Aunt Inez snapped them up. After shaking hands with much of the native population, we were off for Algiers. It was soon dark and we drove and drove up and down around the Atlas Mountains and at last about 11 PM after no dinner we arrived at Algiers. Algiers was expecting Daladier the next morning and several hotels which we tried could not accommodate us. We finally secured rooms on the seventh floor of an inexpensive hotel and all of us piled into bed without a thought of dinner.

Lowdermilk’s niece diary entry: Tunisia

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 4, 1939

taking a detour out to Timgad, an old Roman city in some ways more interesting than Pompeii, we were much amazed at the grandeur displayed there. Trajan’s arch and two tall columns from the capital dominated the landscape. It had been built in 200 A.D., and was a Christian city destroyed by Arabs and then buried by erosion and forgotten 1300 years. We visited one baptismal font of exquisite mosaic work. The blocks of stone covering the street had been laid in diagonal patterns to ease the carriages and carts from successive bumps. The theater was in excellent condition. Uncle wandered off into the hills and Wester and I poked around here and there—visited temples, bakeries, wells and some ice—so while the sun shone it was cold. Ate some apples and dates and waited for Uncle Walter. When at last he arrived we all piled in the car and started on. Drove through more desolate country, mountainous and barren. There was an oasis at the gateway to the desert and a native volunteered his services to take us through the village and back to the road. It was a very tiny village of red clay homes with dark green palms as a background. The man held on to the outside of the car and after the village we soon found ourselves on a bumpy dirty road. We could see the highway in the distance and so dismissed our guide. Much to our disgust we had none of the right change, either too small or too much. Native didn’t like the small change we gave him and declared he was going to ride on going to Biskra, so we gave him too much and he was “flabbergasted.”

We reached Biskra just at twilight and after leaving our bags at a hotel we drove around the city until time for dinner. Just outside the city we watched the full moon rise over the palms—not a bad sight. After dinner Mr. Abry and I went walking to the ruins of an old Turkish fort some distance outside the city. It was a perfectly glorious night! The moon was so bright we could easily read a newspaper. Everything was bathed in moonglow—the white buildings were dazzling in the silvery light. You have just never seen moonlight until you have seen it on the Sahara. However with Mr. Abry I might as well have been alone, which was probably just as well.

Mr. Abry while investigating some palms stuck his foot in some mud, but I avoided it, thank goodness. We wandered around the market square. There were huge sacks piled up around and being of curious nature we investigated. One sack contained hard dried dates, but the other sack was an Arab which we disturbed from slumber. We got out of there in a hurry.

Lowdermilk’s niece diary entry: Tunisia

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 3, 1939

Headed south for the desert with Batna our destination for the night. All morning it drizzled and rained. Our arrival in North Africa was just after the first rain in three years in some places and it was still rainy, cold, changeable weather. The little tiny houses these poor Arabs live in are terrible. There are hardly any trees and the land is rocky and desolate. They paste fertilizer on their homes to dry and later to be used for fuel. Haystacks are covered with mud. All of a sudden, it seemed, we arrived near Constantine which loomed up before us. A huge gorge divided the modern up-to-date appearing city, though it was very old and interesting. We had a late lunch of couscous, fruit and Algerian tea (very good), under much local color. Reached Batna at dusk.

Lowdermilk’s niece diary entry: Tunisia

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 2, 1939

Behind in my diary. How obnoxious. We didn’t leave Tunis until after lunch and while the sun shone, still it was plenty cold. We drove besides straight flat green wheat fields, between distant blue mountains on either side. Here and there across the landscape and more desolate desert regions Bedouin wigwam-like tents dotted the landscape. They were mud or thatched homes. Such pitiful poverty as these poor people live in. The sheep which were grazing on what appeared to be nothing but stone, have wide flat tails to store up fat. Great abundance of prickly pear around some houses as a protection. In one little village a soldier on a bicycle not watching where he was going just missed heaven by nearly colliding with us. Uncle jammed on the brakes but even so the man wrecked the front wheel of his bike. It was decidedly his fault and he, though badly scared realized it. Uncle paid him about 20 Francs however, and the crowd which had gathered was very friendly in waving us a goodbye. Out in the country again we were thrilled by the gorgeous sunset. The clear blue sky, with lazy hazy, white clouds had changed to soft pink and blue-gray clouds and dazzling fiery orange into gray with a light blue sky above. The light blue velvet of the mountains darkened and soon it was night, which we spent at home where Wester and I had dinner in bed.

Lowdermilk’s niece diary entry: Tunis, Tunisia

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 1, 1939

Mac, Mr. Abry (a young Frenchman sent by France to show Walter the French projects of Tunisia) and myself were up early for breakfast and then off to see the native quarter. The shops or souks as the Arabs call them, were fascinating. Entirely covered overhead we walked down narrow cobblestone streets with bright attractive shops on either side and were invited into each shop by the owner who sat outside and shouted to the passerby trying to entice someone inside. Mac went back early but Mr. Abry and myself went on wandering around. We had picked up an Arab guide who spoke French and English and he was really showing us the town. We came out of the Casbah upon a swarming crowd of Arabs.

The Arab prince had died the day before and the bey (native ruler who works with France) and the French governor were going to pass by with the casket on their way to the palace. It was a very quiet crowd. Soon the chanting, weird wailing of the mourners could be heard and after they had passed the bey and governor walked by. The bey was natively dressed—had a beard was a very kind looking old gentleman. The governor was in mourning clothes behind him the casket was carried by several natives on either side with the prince’s dress clothes laid out on top.

Our guide took us through the better souks and I smelled some oriental perfume which was not bad. We then arrived back in town.

The Kelly’s took us out to Carthage for lunch and to see the ruins of what remained of a great city. I had developed a sore throat and so curled up on the porch of the restaurant and while the rest ate I baked in the sun and had a wonderful view of blue sparkling sea below, blue, blue sky above, palm trees and white, white homes along the coast. It was lovely.

The ruins of the city are spread out over quite an area in an old temple was the first stop. Nothing remained but a few marble pillars and a wonderful view of the sea. The old amphitheater and Greek theater were in equal ruins. The Romans certainly hated Hannibal and feared his city and laid waste to it they conquered. Many pieces of marble and statuary were taken as far north as Genoa and Pisa. Back to the hotel for a hot water bottle in bed for me and dinner for the rest.

Lowdermilk’s OBSERVATIONS ON FOOTPRINTS OF ROMAN AGRICULTURE IN NORTH AFRICA

Walter Lowdermilk was recruited by Rexford Tugwell in 1933 to serve as the second-in-command of the new Soil Erosion Service, later called the Soil Conservation Service. In 1938, he was tasked with studying how the husbanding of soil affects human life and well-being. He spent two years exploring lands once ruled by the Romans to find answers. It is on this trip he evolves from scientist to prophet.

OBSERVATIONS ON FOOTPRINTS OF ROMAN AGRICULTURE
IN NORTH AFRICA

By:
W. C. Lowdermilk
Chief of Research
Soil Conservation Service

The onward rush of high speed agriculture in the United States and the rapid impoverishment and destruction of great areas of fertile lands has led conservationists to turn the pages of history for study of land use of older civilizations which have waxed and waned or disappeared, so as to profit by the experience of the past.

The most surprising revelation of a six months journey thus far across Europe and North Africa, has not been the huge land reclamation projects of the modern nations, admirable as they are, but the millions of acres of land in North Africa, despoiled and denuded by the hand of man and his herds, leaving only footprints of past glory upon the naked landscape.


These footprints of Roman occupation are sometimes indistinct or strewn about, or buried altogether. Others are still intact and useful, though overrun by centuries of time and marauding invaders. These footprints consist of buildings of great Roman cities and towns, some of them excavated or in the process of excavation; others still buried in the tombs of time where they have been covered by erosion from the land which formerly fed them; also great aqueducts, cisterns, wells, tunnels, terraces, paved roads, covered sewers, canals, grist mills, check dams for diverting or spreading waters, desilting basins and reservoirs, enumerable stone olive presses often in areas devoid of trees, and interestingly, one single section of old olive tree culture whose mammoth gnarled trees still grow in basins where the Romans had planted them at least 14 centuries ago.

For seven weeks our automobile has rolled its way across 6,500 miles of North Africa, including Algeria, Tunisia, Tripoli, Libya and Egypt. From oases to oases, past camel caravans, through herds of sheep and goats or past Bedouin Nomad tents or natives still living in villages under stone age conditions. We have watched the landscape change from covering of olive groves, vineyards and grain fields in fertile alluvial plains to the nakedness of desert pavement, rolling sand dunes or mountain slopes over-grazed and scoured down to their rocky skeletons. We have seen the terrific ravages of man’s abuse of the land over centuries of occupation side by side with great modern projects of reclamation, conservation and colonization. Native Berbers and Arabs have been and are being pushed economically into the already overcrowded hill and back country to give way to colonists which overflow from France and Italy into their colonies and protectorates in North Africa.

Across the centuries comes the warning from the older countries that civilizations rise or fall on their food supply; the conservation as well as protection of productive soil and water resources is vital. Erosion, both by wind and water is as great, if not a greater enemy to modern than to ancient civilizations because of the use of power which makes man more destructive in his exploitation of the land than ever before in human history.

The widespread occurrence of these ancient Roman ruins and their richness and magnificence which bespoke a prosperity and population exceeding many times that of today, first led observers to conclude that climate had changed for the worse since the Roman era. Thorough studies in recent times have found no evidence that climate has changed in any important degree since the Roman epoch and that the Romans enjoyed no more rainfall than the inhabitants of today. Locally, however, important changes of climate have occurred where lands have been denuded of forests and vegetation and subjected to erosion and the quick run-off of beneficent rainfall, resulting in desert like conditions.

One can read the landscape of these long inhabited lands and translate the story of centuries of continued abuse of soils which formerly maintained large and flourishing populations, but which can now supply meager sustenance to a fleeting and sparse population of Nomads. The phenomena of shifting soils is thus far the most significant finding of our observations. Soils of entire mountain and hill slopes have shifted from the rock foundations to expose the naked rock skeletons of the hills. Quantities of these fertile soils were carried out to the sea in numberless torrents which discolored the blue Mediterranean with their silt laden waters. A portion of these shifting soils came to rest on the valley floor or canyon bottoms, depositing sometimes to great depths. These form fertile soil oases in the otherwise barren countryside; but storm waters which rush off the barren slopes cut gullies into these remaining fertile soil oases.

The destruction of Roman civilization in North Africa began with a moral decay and decline in the midst of luxury, and led to the incursion of the Vandals. While the Byzantine occupation recovered, rebuilt and stabilized a part of the empire, it was only temporary. During the sixth and seventh centuries the Arabs swept over the land and destroyed Roman cities, Roman culture, Roman Agriculture, and even the traditions of agriculture. More than all else, they and their goats, set in motion the processes of erosion which have shifted the soils and transformed vast areas of formerly productive lands into desert like wastes of active erosion. The Arabs, descendants of Abraham through the line of Hagar and Ishmael, are frequently spoken of as “Sons of the Desert”, but it may be more apt to call them “The Fathers of Desert Lands”. They have primarily been a nomadic people, caring nothing for permanent homes and agriculture, but wandering about with their herds according to the dictates of drought or pasture and chopping down trees for firewood or burning them to increase forage for their flocks.

One cannot realize the destruction and transformation until one has seen the amazing grandeur and beauty of these Roman cities now being excavated from the erosion debris which buried them. The wreckage of the surrounding lands is even greater than the destruction of the cities. Cities can be rebuilt, but surrounding slopes are cut up with such labyrinths of writhing gullies that the original vegetations, former condition or use, cannot be determined.

One day, after traveling for thirty nine miles from Sousse over an empty, tawny landscape, paralleling an old Roman paved road, and passing only Bedouin Nomads and four small clusters of houses, not worthy to be called villages, we were startled to see a huge dark mass loom up on the horizon. It grew taller and wider as the miles vanished, and began to take clearer form. The light spots became windows and the jagged top and walls took the form of a huge coliseum with a circumference of 1200 feet and a seating capacity for 60,000 people. This mass of building stone and marble had been brought by boat nearly 2000 years ago, to the coast thirty one miles away and then carted overland to the populous and prosperous Roman city of Thydrus, famous for its vast olive cultivation. Now Nomad Marys were being followed around this great structure by wooly fat tail lambs, sheep and black goats as they foraged for meagre herbs, or ate the barbary cactus beside the road.

Our highway passed around the coliseum and over the great city of Thydrus, buried under the sands of the centuries. After destroying the city the Arabs used the coliseum as a fortress.

As is their custom, the Arabs soon destroyed the trees and orchards; the denuded lands began to blow. Wind erosion covered the city entirely, and partially filled the coliseum. Recent excavation revealed spacious thermae or public baths with gorgeous mosaic floors, still colorful and intact. Sand had preserved what the hand of man had failed to destroy. The outlines of a mammoth Roman circus or amphitheater, have been discovered but not yet excavated. A miserable village has been built above the old city, with stones which the Romans had so carefully carved and shaped into beauty, quarried from the upper ruins of the coliseum. This magnificent edifice no more resembles the present filthy village called El Djem, which has been hatched out as a brood from the mother stones, than does a peacock which has been deceived into hatching forth a brood of vulgar sparrows.

Around this region, as well as in countless other areas, sometimes treeless or with only an occasional olive tree as a remnant, we found great numbers of Roman olive presses of stone. French archaeologists have been of great assistance in determining the possibilities of reclamation based on former Roman land use due to these footprints left among the sands and soils of time.

In all our travels in North Africa we found only one remnant of Roman agriculture which was saved from Arab destruction. The Roman culture of olives persisted in the area around Sousse, and Tunisia, using the identical methods of enclosed basins and storm water irrigation. Also I suspect that these huge gnarled olive trees were planted by the Romans not less than fourteen centuries ago. No one knows how old they are. A rain of the winter gave us an opportunity to see how the Roman method of conservation of rain waters worked: how Arab farmers of today directed the storm water from basin to basin.

These ancient olive orchards are planted about 50 trees to the acre as against the spacing of 10 to 20 in the modern plantings. An earth bank surrounds each basin in which from four to ten trees are planted. These basins are level and set at different levels according to the topography. Thus each basin becomes a veritable reservoir which conserves all rain waters that fall, against the needs of the long dry summers. Furthermore, the water from the barren or closely grazed adjoining slopes is guided into the basins and as soon as one basin is filled, the farmer diverts the water to other basins in turn. This method has proved its efficiency through the centuries; it prevents loss of soil by both wind and water erosion and conserves the greatest possible amount of moisture for olive culture.

French archaeologists found in the region of Sfax numerous olive oil presses throughout the windswept plains, dotted by thorny shrubs which had accumulated the blowing soils, forming hummocks. On the basis of these findings experimental plantings of olive trees would again flourish in this region. During the past forty years several hundred thousand acres of olive orchards have been planted. Sfax is a thriving city built on the new olive industry. Modern olive presses have been established and one meets on the highway large trucks, loaded high with barrels of oil. However, one portion of this general area has been destroyed by such excessive labyrinths of gullies that its utility for any cultivation has gone forever.

There is one lamentable feature of all this modern planting. The trees have been planted in straight rows, up and down the slopes, regardless of topography. Already erosion has taken its toll of the new plantings. In places the surface of the orchard is covered with erosion or desert pavement. We saw gully erosion in action. The raging storm run-off was carrying away the soils as they cut numerous gullies through the orchards. In other places, sand dunes of considerable size were growing; evidence that both wind and water erosion is already a serious problem in this extensive project. This erosion problem might have been avoided if modern plantings had followed the old Roman method. In view of the fact that olive trees, when protected from man and his ax, often live many centuries, contour planting and erosion control methods are especially needed in this modern project. When I drew the attention of French agricultural officials to this erosion problem and the need of erosion control, they agreed with me. They were not sure if the French colonials could be induced to plant on contour instead of in straight rows up and down slopes. Contour plantings would be an improvement over the Roman basin method, to suit modern methods of cultivation.

The ruins of old Roman aqueducts, many hundred of miles of them, with their manifold arches, stretch like elevated bridges across parched thirsty landscapes. Roman towns and cities were always located to take advantage of nearby streams or springs, or even many miles distant, if aqueducts could be made to bring water supply by gravity flow to the city. Some of these aqueducts are magnificent works of engineering. If the city was large, more than one aqueduct and water supply was provided. These flowed constantly and emptied their waters into reservoirs for storage in or near the city. We found that running water into individual city houses was customary. Timgad, a city of 25,000 population had 22 public baths. Bathing was an elaborate ritual with the Romans and required large supplies of water. Public latrines were provided with sanitary flushing systems.

We were conducted to a recent excavation near Timgad. An inscription on a stone slab excavated at the sight of a reservoir revealed that the Roman Emperor had ordered the malarial marsh on one side of the city be drained. Tunnels were constructed of concrete, and the waters conducted through basins and into a reservoir to supply another public bath for the city.

We have found a number of instances where the Romans transported waters through underground tunnels to avoid evaporation. Also we found where they had dug several wells and connected them with communicating tunnels in order to increase the water supply by tapping larger areas of seepage and to prevent loss by evaporation during long dry spells. It was noted that inscriptions gave credit to this or that Emperor for aqueduct or irrigation projects, which shows the attention and importance placed upon the development and conservation of water supplies.

Roman footprints, in the form of cisterns, have been left by the thousands all over North Africa, extending from the coast far out into the desert on camel caravan routes. Many of these cisterns are now being used; others are being cleaned out and repaired. One is apt to find a cistern in any spot which gave promise for the accumulation of rain waters, whether for irrigation, village supply or for herds.

Cisterns are of all sizes, from small ones of a few gallons capacity to huge cisterns of 250,000 gallons. Many of these larger ones are provided with a desilting basin and a spillway. I visited one huge Roman cistern at Mergueb, 50 miles south of Tebessa, with a capacity of 210,000 gallons. It had been covered with a roof and repaired to supply water for herds. It is located on a long gently sloping outwash fan, on which were built low earthen banks to guide run-off waters, first into an 8 by 10 foot desilting basin and then into the cistern. The repaired spillway remained as the Romans had made it.

Last year a thunderstorm occurred in the vicinity and not only filled the cistern to capacity, but the spillway was of insufficient size and the waters overflowed the side walls. Thus run-off in the twentieth century exceeded the expectancy of Roman engineers. Whether this was from greater rains than in ancient times or caused by greater run-off from the present denuded soils, cannot be ascertained. While the evidence is not conclusive, it discounts the theory of the desiccation of North Africa since Roman times.

Underground water tables in the lowlands appear to be unchanged since Roman times. Roman wells, in the lowlands of widely separated areas, which have been cleaned out and repaired, give evidence that the water level today is almost identical with that two thousand years ago when the wells were dug and faced with stone.

The Romans were also masters in the art of stone or earth terracing. Whether this originated with them or with the ancient Phoenicians is not yet clear. But that they extensively practiced terracing for agriculture and olive groves is certain. South of Tebessa we found a system of check dams and terracing on the slopes facing the Sahara. One dam, long since broken, measured 110 feet on the crest and 12 feet in height. In the vicinity of Sbeitla is an elaborate system of check dams and terraces, extending up to the tops of the mountains for the culture of the olive and grains. These works were followed out to the valley floor where they still serve to aid the Arab in barley culture, though in a state of partial ruin. Perhaps the maximum development of terracing dating from Roman times is to be found in the Grand Atlas Mountains in Morocco where the slopes are terraced in elaborate detail by the Berbers.

We have seen numerous “karms” or artificial earthen mounds in the Northern Libyan region of Egypt, which contain many Roman ruins. These “karms” built in connection with enclosures, appear to have been constructed to add the run-off from their slopes to the gardens in the enclosed area. These enclosures are still in use for Arab barley fields.

Thus today, after fifteen to twenty centuries, we have found various footprints of Roman occupation in North Africa. We have seen her temples and gods; her coliseums where Romans gloated at human agony and death by torture, or wild beasts, or by methods which only depraved minds could conceive; her slave markets where human beings were bought and sold to labor, that Roman masters might live in luxury and leisure; her aqueducts and elaborate baths; her paved roads of commerce in areas sometimes now devoid of populations; her public works and remains of agricultural practices which were made of stone, and are still visible after centuries of marauding invaders. Cato wrote that if one wished to compliment a Roman, he should be spoken of as an “agriculturist”, but they were “gentlemen farmers” who studied the times and seasons and methods for planting, but ordered slaves to do the work. The extent to which they recognized the wastage of erosion is not known, but Roman footprints visible today reveal an extensive and detailed knowledge and practice in the control and use of little waters, and the conservation of soils. But we have also seen how all these measures and works can be destroyed by man until productive lands are transformed into man-made deserts — deserted except for Bedouin nomads and their herds.

/s/ W. C. Lowdermilk

Beirut, Syria
March 3, 1939

Carthage

Glories of old Carthage have sunk into the sepulchres of history. Modern homes were built on her crumbled stones and dust, but the nomad still herds his flocks over what was once the powerful city of Carthage.
Jan. 1, 1939. W.C.L.

El Djem

View of the giant coliseum at El Djem, and a wretched village built on the covered ruins of the ancient Roman city of Thysdrus. The Coliseum seated 60,000 persons, which is many folds the entire population of the surrounding region today.
Feb. 5, 1939. W.C.L.

El Djem, Tunisia

Foreground of the 20th Century shacks and their inhabitants against the background of the great Roman Coliseum to seat 60,000 people. The great city is still unexcavated — only the coliseum towers above the buried city on which shacks have been built.

Roman well and cistern

Old Roman well and cistern now repaired and in use. Ancient stone olive presses found in this region by French Archaeologists led to the planting of about 200,000 acres of olives, North Africa. Feb. 1, 1939. W.C.L.

SFAX, TUNISIA

Recent plantations about Sfax, Tunisia, have been extended to 200,000 acres in the past 40 years. Prior to the recent plantings not an olive tree was to be found in the Sfax plain, where Bedouin nomads grazed their flocks seasonally. Archaeological evidence in oil presses indicated extensive culture without irrigation during Roman times. If the climate had not changed then olives should grow today. They were planted and thrived. But instead of following the ancient method of forming basins of earth mounds to hold all the water that falls and runs in from impluvia of barren slopes, the trees have been planted in straight rows and the land kept clean by fallow plowing to conserve moisture. An Arab is plowing with a camel in the right middle ground for this purpose. Straight rows have induced run-off of storm waters and gully erosion, which has caused serious damage in this area. Likewise a fallow condition of the land with trees spaced 10 – 20 to the acre invited wind erosion, which has already formed sand dunes in portions of this area.
Feb. 1, 1939. W.C.L.


Editorial Notes on Controversial or confusing Passages

As Richard Feynman said, “Science is a culture of doubt.” Lowdermilk shows little doubt on these pages. Whether the certainty comes from Inez’s influence or his progressive bent can be speculative only. Nonetheless, he is declarative almost prophetic in his report.

Lowdermilk refers to earthen runoff enclosures as “karms,” likely borrowing from the Arabic karm (vineyard or cultivated enclosure). The hydraulic features he describes are more accurately classified as meskat or related runoff-harvesting systems documented in North African agricultural literature. His terminology reflects the fluid transliteration and observational shorthand common in interwar field writing.

Statements attributing environmental degradation primarily to ‘the Arabs and their goats’ is too facile and reflect a common early 20th-century environmental determinist framework. Lowdermilk’s progressive worldview would emphasize centralized planning by technocratic experts. Modern scholarship recognizes land-use change in North Africa as the result of complex, multi-period processes involving Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Ottoman, and colonial regimes, as well as climatic variability and economic transformation.

The phrase ‘The Fathers of Desert Lands’ is polemical and reflects Lowdermilk’s bias toward experts and their ability to plan, finance, and build, rather than a balanced historical assessment. It should be read as an expression of his soil-conservation thesis rather than an ethnographic conclusion.

Descriptions of El Djem as a ‘filthy village’ and the peacock/sparrow metaphor reflect period language and colonial-era aesthetic judgment. Such phrasing is preserved here verbatim for documentary accuracy.

The claim that Roman civilization declined due to ‘moral decay’ echoes classical historiography and 19th-century moral interpretations of imperial collapse; contemporary historians emphasize political, economic, military, and ecological factors.

The discussion discounting ‘desiccation’ theories reflects interwar debates over climate change in North Africa. Current climatology suggests regional variability but does not support a simple desiccation narrative.

Lowdermilk’s niece diary entry: Tunis, Tunisia

December 31, 1938

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary.


December 31, Tunis, Tunisia…. I am really in Africa. It’s cold and I long to be hot just once. Wrote, unpacked and washed until lunch which we took out in an Arab eating house and had the native dish couscous with chicken. It’s sort of ground wheat with vegetable sauce and the meat on top. We also had ktafi, which is a sweet cake of coconut, dates, honey and I don’t know what else, very good. Arabian music accompanied the meal. On leaving, a beautiful ragged, dirty beggar girl smiled so appealing that we yielded. They often have beautiful teeth.

In the afternoon Mrs. Kelly took Billy to play with her son, and Wester and I accompanied her into the Arab quarter, down narrow dirty streets between white windowless houses to a mission school supported by the Methodists of Sweden. The Arabian house is built with all the rooms facing an inner court. We knocked and were admitted by a tiny girl. I nearly stumbled over a large assortment of wooden sandals placed just inside the door. One of the missionaries greeted us and was most cordial in inviting us to come across the courtyard to see the little girls at work. They were poor children (about 25 of them). They were very pretty little girls, from the ages of 5 to 12, were seated tailor fashion on the floor, busy at their embroidery, knitting or making lace. They were clean and their clothes were neatly mended. It took at least 3 weeks for the child to make this handkerchief which I am sending. They cannot be taught any school work they have to go to French schools, but their thought humans. They graciously sang several of the weirdest tunes I have ever heard. Dolls dressed by the Beta Epsilon girls would be appreciated here.

From the mission school we proceeded to the home of an Arabian girl recently married to her cousin. She was of a strong Mohammedan family and her husband is a Christian. He had married his cousin because he had seen her and knew what she was like, but the girl’s family had—

She was most attractive and hospitable, teaching us how to drape ourselves in the white robe and veil and showing us her wedding clothes and her home. Then back to the Kelly’s home for a huge delicious tea and a jolly talk about everything. Guy came back to the hotel with us for dinner, after which Mr. and Mrs. Kelly joined us and to celebrate New Year’s Eve we decided to attend an oriental concert. These concerts last from 8 PM to 4 AM however, in those hours the listeners could come and go. We arrived at 10 or 10:30 and from the street we could hear the curious wailing of what I took to be a man’s voice, but which turned out to be a girls—a very attractive girls, too. Her songs were accompanied by 7 or 8 piece orchestra of instruments entirely unknown to me. She was seated at the end of each piece, but with the start of the music she rose and swinging her body in rhythm with the music, walked back and forth until she started to saying. I don’t think she was particularly enjoying her work for she never smiled—perhaps she was afraid.

Arabs in native and modern dress were seated around the platform drinking and smoking. The room had become a hazy blue sea of smoke. Men in fez and in turbans, women with veils and women with hats all listened to the weird chanting music.

After a brief intermission another Arab girl—very plump and in a slinky yellow formal, entered and began strutting her stuff. She danced with her songs, and did those Arab men like it! She wiggled about and rubbed her fat hips and “tummy” and rioter plumpness all over the place much as though she had a tummy ache, except that she was obviously enjoying it. The singer turned out to be the mother of the girl and was more popular with the audience. Songs were probably of love and either very older popular, for often the whole audience joined in with the singer. One Arab was much annoyed because the foreigners could not understand the singing. He was very loud in his complaint and the audience soon knew just who we were, and we received many curious stares. We left about 11:45 PM Downtown the streets were crowded but not noisy—no horns were blown, no shouts of happy New Year, no serpentine or confetti—nothing that makes an American New Year’s Eve. We entered an arcade café and had ice cream and came home.

Lowdermilk’s niece diary entry: Africa to Beirut

December 30, 1938

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary.


December 30—Friday—arrived in Tunis, North Africa at 7:30 a.m. after a rising and falling night. The ways were lined with ragged Arabs and Negroes, all of whom wore red skullcaps with long black silk tassels. I shall get one. Mr. Kelly, an old friend of the Wagner’s met us at the boat and helped us to get through the customs and find a good hotel. The Arab men were sitting on the sidewalks sunning themselves and gossiping (all ragged and dirty) and a tea or coffee vendor was passing one cup around and refilling it for each person. Mohammedan women dressed in white flowing robes, but with heavy black veils, passed swiftly and silently. We found good rooms at the Claridge Hotel. It was freezing outside, tile floors inside didn’t help warm the rooms any. After lunch Aunt Inez and I went to bed with a hot water bottle and slept, took baths then dressed for dinner, to which Mr. and Mrs. Kelly came. Mrs. Kelly is beautiful and good as she is lovely, I am sure. Mr. Kelly is very humorous. They used to be missionaries and now are doing YMCA work. Mr. Kelly says the Mohammedan women are likely to wear the veils and that the little girls can hardly wait until they are old enough to start. The men’s spoil their women. Their fortune is in their jewelry. It is the young men that are getting the women to unveil. They can’t afford to have more than one wife. We sat around talking until after 11, and I was frozen from my feet up. They left and I popped into a hot bath and then to bed.

Lowdermilk’s niece diary entry: Africa to Beirut

December 29, 1938

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary.

December 30—Friday—arrived in Tunis, North Africa at 7:30 a.m. after a rising and falling night. The ways were lined with ragged Arabs and Negroes, all of whom wore red skullcaps with long black silk tassels. I shall get one. Mr. Kelly, an old friend of the Wagner’s met us at the boat and helped us to get through the customs and find a good hotel. The Arab men were sitting on the sidewalks sunning themselves and gossiping (all ragged and dirty) and a tea or coffee vendor was passing one cup around and refilling it for each person. Mohammedan women dressed in white flowing robes, but with heavy black veils, passed swiftly and silently. We found good rooms at the Claridge Hotel. It was freezing outside, tile floors inside didn’t help warm the rooms any. After lunch Aunt Inez and I went to bed with a hot water bottle and slept, took baths then dressed for dinner, to which Mr. and Mrs. Kelly came. Mrs. Kelly is beautiful and good as she is lovely, I am sure. Mr. Kelly is very humorous. They used to be missionaries and now are doing YMC a work. Mr. Kelly says the Mohammedan women are likely to where the veils and that the little girls can hardly wait until they are old enough to start. The men’s foil their women. Their fortune is in their jewelry. It is the young men that are getting the women to unveil. They can’t afford to have more than one wife. We sat around talking until after 11, and I was frozen from my feet up. They left and I popped into a hot bath and then to bed.

Correction: This was December 29, 1938 not December 30 as originally published.