Tracing Land Use Across Ancient Boundaries: From San Dimas to Washington

Walter Lowdermilk was recruited by Rexford Tugwell in 1933 to serve as the second-in-command of the new Soil Erosion Service, later called the Soil Conservation Service. In 1938, he was tasked with studying how soil affects human life and well-being. He spent two years exploring lands once ruled by the Romans to find answers.

This is the beginning of Walter Clay Lowdermilk’s journey from an experimental watershed in Southern California to the center of the New Deal’s campaign against soil erosion. A meeting at a plant-introduction garden in Chico would bring his ideas to the attention of Rexford Tugwell and send Lowdermilk to Washington, where an unexpectedly chilly reception awaited him.

Crisis and Leviathan

The Great Depression and the Dust Bowl created an extraordinary alignment of economic crisis, ecological catastrophe, and political opportunity, enabling Roosevelt’s New Deal to transform decades of Progressive thought into bold experiments in governance and conservation.1

The Dust Bowl exposed the limits of knowledge and boosterism. Samuel Aughey Jr., a professor at the University of Nebraska claimed that broken soil absorbed water and released it back into the atmosphere. Land speculator and journalist, Charles Dana Wilber gave the doctrine its memorable formulation, rain follows the plow” in his book, The Great Valleys and Prairies of Nebraska and the Northwest.

And Walter Clay Lowdermilk, Ph.D. had bold ideas for worldwide conservation. Having completed his graduate work at University of California at Berkeley, he was the principal scientific architect of the San Dimas Experimental Forest. He selected its paired watersheds, devised its original research plan and experimental procedures, and began the rainfall, runoff, and erosion studies that became the foundation of the project.

Knowles Ryerson’s work intrigued Lowdermilk. Ryerson directed the USDA’s foreign plant-introduction program, bringing legumes, shrubs, and grasses into the United States and testing them at Plant Introduction Gardens, including the station at Chico, California.

Lowdermilk had long imagined something more ambitious: an international exchange among the United States, China, and South Africa of plants capable of restoring gullied land and soils damaged by water and wind erosion.

The Meeting at Chico

In 1933, Ryerson telegraphed Lowdermilk that Rexford Tugwell, then Assistant Secretary of Agriculture and a prominent member of Roosevelt’s Brain Trust would be coming to visit the program, he arranged for Lowdermilk to meet Tugwell at the Plant Introduction Garden in Chico.

Lowdermilk arrived carrying the working plan for his proposed international exchange. He showed it to Tugwell, who asked to keep the copy. Tugwell then spent several days examining Lowdermilk’s research at Berkeley and San Dimas and discussing the national menace of soil erosion.

The encounter changed Lowdermilk’s life. In September 1933, he was ordered to leave San Dimas and report to Washington as associate chief of the newly formed Soil Erosion Service.

Washington and Hugh Bennett

Believing the assignment to be temporary, he left Inez and their two children in Berkeley, packed two suitcases, and crossed the country by train. In Washington, he took a room at the then all-male Cosmos Club and walked and walked the few blocks to the Winder Building to report to Hugh H. Bennett.

Bennett did not offer to shake Lowdermilk’s hand.

1 It also imposed new regulations, enforcement, and resentment — the machinery of a new administrative state arriving in places that had not asked for it and did not want it.

Sources

Walter Clay Lowdermilk, Soil, Forest, and Water Conservation and Reclamation in China, Israel, Africa, and the United States, interview by Malca Chall, 1969, Regional Oral History Office, Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley, p. 132

Inez Marks Lowdermilk, All in a Lifetime (Berkeley, CA: The Lowdermilk Trust, 1985), p. 104

Jacoby, Karl. Crimes against Nature: Squatters, Poachers, Thieves, and the Hidden History of American Conservation p. 34.

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry: The Problem with Ben Saada, Conclusion

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

Now, the conclusion to The Problem with Ben Saada:

February 2, Thursday—Off in the morning to the souks to take the cashmere shawl to be wrapped with the other things, and also to have my picture taken in an Arabian costume in native atmosphere.

The costume Aunt Inez and I got requires a shirt to be worn between the brassiere top and baggy pants, and since I possessed nary a one, he [Saada] gave me a modern costume to wear. It was of beautiful metallic cloth, but I do not like it as well as ours.

Then he took my picture on the Bey’s bed and up on the terrace with the beautiful old tiles as the background and the old towers of the neighboring minarets. After lunch at our hotel Billy, Westher and I returned to the souks where Billy bought a box, beautifully inlaid—but still a useless thing for a fellow.

After dinner Mr. Saada took the rest of us into the poorer quarter to see their life. It was fete night and should have been very colorful, but the rain of the evening had stopped all gaiety. Little ragged children were curled up sleeping in the shelter of the eaves, and beggars squatted near doorways, but other than these pitiful few, the streets were empty and deserted.

Once when driving by a street, and Negro appeared but when she was asked to dance for us she refused and no amount of pleading could persuade her. We all were Mr. Saada’s guests at the one nightclub of the best standing and danced for a couple of hours and then to bed.

February 3, Friday—We were all invited to Mr. Saada’s for a couscous lunch and it was a delicious one too. Upstairs away from the din of the streets, seated on soft rugs in an Oriental Arabian atmosphere, we ate to our heart’s content of chicken couscous (prepared by Mrs. Sato’s mother) and candy, fruit and coffee to finish off the feast.

Uncle had left on an important appointment. I had decided to change my cashmere shawl, since Mother had one of Grandma Moody’s put away for me, for a native woven wool couch cover.

Mr. Saada told the others to sit down and then took me in another room where he shocked me by saying he loved me and was going to divorce all his wives for me. Aunt Inez felt “something in her bones” and so came in just the nick of time. Smelled a lot of perfume. Mr. Saada gave me some and a pair of slippers.

Back to the hotel soon after 5. He appeared on the scene about an hour later with a couple of records of native dances and the pictures taken the day before which were quite good. We had a good long talk with my telling him not to divorce his wives and with him telling me that someday I would love him and come to Tunis—OH YEAH!!! During dinner he returned this time with a box of candy for the trip.

Took a bath and then to bed. What a day!!

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry: The Problem with Ben Saada, Part II

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 31, Tuesday—Wrote in the morning and then off for a couscous meal at the Baghdad. Got the car and drove over to the Kelly’s to say “hello”, and then to the souks. It’s wonderful to sit tailor-fashion on a pile of beautiful rugs with beautiful tapestries and old Persian rugs hanging on the walls and in this quiet restful atmosphere sip tea and talk leisurely—the Arab gentleman in yellow vest, soft yellow slippers and flowing white burnoose. He gave me a “wedding present” of two rug seat covers. Mac got two gorgeous old Mecca rugs. While we were sitting waiting for the tea to be poured, the Arab, Ben Saada, which means “man of chance” said that the one who got the last cup of tea poured would be married within a year, and he gave it to me.

Then he took us downstairs into a small secluded room and we sniffed and bought the essences to wonderful fragrances. Chanel, Patou and others by the essence from this very man, mix the perfume together with alcohol and sell them for a price. It was after 7 when we left. He took us in his car to our car, for it was raining. He has a Citroen which compares with a Ford or a Packard for traveling.

February 1, Wednesday—Wrote in the morning and then at 12:30 the Kelley’s took us out to a lovely restaurant for luncheon. Aunt Inez went back to the hotel to write, but Wester, Billy, Mrs. Kelley and I went to the souks to pay for some rugs. We made a beeline or as much as a beeline as possible in the narrow, twisting, dirty, muddy streets, for it had been raining, to Palais de Orient, the shop of Ben Saada.

He was waiting for us, and, while I wanted to pay the first thing, we were shown into a small room where we leisurely sipped tea and ate dates, candied quince and Turkish delight. Then I picked out a leather cushion, the best, and he knocked the price way down. We went upstairs and while showing Mrs. Kelley the antiques we came across the Saracen belt. Mr. Ben Saada said I could have it for 80 francs, and I took it. It was just the right size too. Then he picked out several ancient Roman coins for a bracelet and gave them to me.

He also gave all of us a Fatma’s Hand of Chance. The Bey had a wife named Fatma whom he loved dearly, but one day found her with another man. He was supposed to kill her, but he loved her so much that instead he cut off her hand—the Fatma’s Hand of Chance. Then I bought an old cashmere shawl and a tray and by this time it was very late. Mr. Ben Saada took us in his car to get Mr. Kelley’s car which was left at the edge of the souks. First thing we had a flat which delayed us and then the Kelley’s car wasn’t to be found. We left Mrs. Kelley at the Port de France and then went back to look up telephone messages at the hotel, but there were none. In the meantime Mrs. Kelley found Mr. Kelley and everything was OK.

Mr. Saada took the rest of us home to dinner at the hotel. He had wanted to take us out to show us the Arabian nightlife but uncle was gone all day and hadn’t returned—so no go.

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry: The Problem with Ben Saada, Part I

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

Apologies for neglecting the travelogue. I have just completed writing the biography of two fascinating people. it is the story of Walter and Inez Lowdermilk, an American couple who came to see soil erosion as a threat to civilization. Their pursuit of land conservation carried them from China and the Dust Bowl to Palestine, where their ideas about reclaiming the land helped build the case for the creation of Israel.

It now will go to some beta readers to tell me if it is as good as I think it is.

The writing and research relied heavily on this young woman, Elizabeth Moody, who married her high school sweetheart, Forrest Daggett in 1941.

This diary entry is the beginning of perhaps my favorite entry in all of Elizabeth’s tales about her travels with her aunt, uncle, and cousins on the trip of a lifetime.


January 29, Sunday—I had to put oil on my hair before going to wash it for the water is very hard. It took 3 shampoos to cut the oil and I rinsed my hair several times, but even so something was decidedly wrong. My hair felt like a horses’ and was a hopeless mess of snarls and tangles. Aunt Inez came in and brushed and combed it, and it was soap that was still in it. After a half hour it was presentable.

Hurriedly I dressed and raced down the street with Billy to catch up with Uncle, Auntie, Wester and Mr. Abry who were headed for a visit to the souks. We caught up with them and were soon in narrow streets covered above with brilliant-colored scarves and materials hanging on the walls and natives begging us to come in and buy. We drifted into several small shops and looked and bargained. Aunt Inez got several purses and some perfume.

We ate a couple of bananas seated on some steps in the souks—a lot of fun. Then we got in a rug shop and Uncle and Auntie really let themselves go. It was wonderful. We were served delicious mint tea seated cross-legged on a pile of rugs and Auntie and Uncle bought one, and an oriental girls costume, old, with baggy satin trousers embroidered in silver and a brassiere top to match. Then a white net veil with silver design cover face and head.

Oh, boy!

I got a fez too. We all did. We were still looking at more rugs and they serve more tea with cakes, and then we bought some more rugs because the owner said since we had eaten his cakes we were his friends and he gave us a better price. We had a wonderful time. We were in there about three hours and when we came out it was almost dark. Mr. Abry stayed for dinner after which he, Mac and I, went wandering around town looking for the post office and then to dance at the Gaitie.

We visited the palace of the Bey, native ruler of Tunisia. There were only a few rooms of interest, the waiting room in beautiful tiles with a carved plaster ceiling, very interesting and dainty. The throne room with carved wooden ceiling in gold and reds, the old ding room (now the council chamber) in the same work as the throne room and the prime minister’s office with intricate carved plaster ceiling and then a wonderful view from the terrace of the harbor and surrounding city. Lovely rugs on the floor.

January 30, Monday—Got up late and wrote until time for lunch which we had at the Baghdad. A couscous meal with chicken, delicious. Uncle got money at the bank and then we all went to our rug shop at the souks to pay a good-sized bill. They served us tea again and we all talked and Auntie and I bought a lot of handwoven and hand embroidery baby burnouses for gifts. Then while Uncle paid and settled a bill,

Aunt Inez and I went into a shop up the street. It wasn’t pretentious from the outside but some Persian rugs in the windows caught our eyes. It was fascinating on the inside—everything imaginable from jewelry, rugs, native dress, trays, pillows, antiques—you wander from one room into another and into another. A good-looking Arab in a white draped burnouse waited on us and showed us around. The rugs were upstairs, room after room of them. He served us coffee and we found out that he was cousin to the Bey and had three wives, who he loved equally.

That was quite a shock.

We saw then the golden bed of the Bey who slept in the middle with two wives on either side. He showed us his terraced roof, beautifully tiled in yellows and blues with potted flowers around, and far lovelier than the Bey’s palace. I

went back after Billy, Wester and Mac (Uncle had an appointment) and then we started looking at rugs. Two of the most wonderful Persians I ever hope to see. They were gifts to the Bey 70 years ago from the Shah of Persia (intends and blues and one way light and the other dark.) The back of the silk carpet was a wonderful tapestry, but each one while small was $450 apiece. They are not made anymore.

Then we looked at Kairohan rugs and I got one. It is thick and soft and will last years and years. It is in all natural colors and will not fade. It was finally after 6:30 when we left and the souks deserted and closed and quite spooky. We were glad to accept the offer of the Arab gentlemen of an escort and soon found ourselves back in town. M. Abry was supposed to come for dinner but had been away all day in the South of Tunisia and so didn’t arrive until midnight, consequently we won’t see him again until spring. Went to bed but the little cur [Mecktube] cried all night long for me to play with him.

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry: The Slow Train to Souk Ahras

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 27, [1939] Friday—Wrote in the morning and then after lunch Miss Nora Beth from the mission station in the native quarter to go shopping. I got another ring to replace the one I lost at Bou Saada, a really old ring too. Everything they had was being sent to the New York Exposition.

Visited the mission building but no classes were in session. It was Arabic style and quite attractive.

Constantine is a very beautiful city and interesting. It was built on either side of a rocky gorge by the Phoenicians. Part is very old and part is modern. Throughout North Africa we have noticed that the natives are very friendly and love to shake hands with you. They do it at the least opportunity.

We took the bus out to the orphanage run by Miss Loveless, (old maid-ish, I like her the least.) It was a fine building, modern with lots of equipment and plenty of room. After tea the children came in and sang several songs, and introduced themselves. Soon after we made our adieus and went to the Douglass’ to say goodbye and then to the hotel for dinner with Miss Austin and Miss Ostrom as guests. Packed then and went to bed.

January 28, Saturday—the hotel called us at 5:30 a.m. and we were up, dressed, and breakfast eaten and at the station at 6:15. It was rather filled with white robed natives and it fell to me to get the tickets.

I managed to jam as much as the natives and soon we found ourselves packed in the train with one half hour to wait.

Off at last following a riverbed with rocky mountains on either side. The hotel gave us a picnic lunch and we amused ourselves with the dog, writing and reading. Into a green fertile plain, which was lovely. Probably owned by French colonists.

Our train was so slow. I swear it stopped at every cow pen along the way.

About 12, we came into a large city (we were expecting to get off at 12:30) and out of idle curiosity we glanced out to see what place it was. Much to our surprise and confusion it was Souk Ahras, our destination.

It was a mad scramble of closing zipper bags, putting typewriter away and grabbing coats and the dog. We expected walk into Uncle Walter’s waiting arms but he was not there. A lot of Arab boys rushed forward for our bags.

We were all so loaded down we were glad to surrender our burdens until a fight among eight or ten boys as to which was to carry a zipper bag started. That was a mad scramble to get our bags back and have the errand boys grabbed them from us, and we all shouted “no, no, no.”

Then we couldn’t find the waiting room. Finally, there was so much confusion a station official came to see what the trouble was. I explained in French (what a task) that Uncle Walter was coming for us to 12:30 and that we wanted a place to wait in. He shooed the pesky Arabs away and took us inside the station where we waited.

Finally Auntie couldn’t stand it any longer, and had me ask if this was the only station in Souk Aras.

It was.

Then she wanted me to tell the man that monsieur. was coming for us at 12:30 and we went back and continue to wait until Uncle Walter and Mac finally arrived at 1 p.m. Were we glad to see them! They had been taking pictures along the way.

Well we were off for Tunis at last through pine forests in desert like country.

At Le Kef, we were stopped by an officer who tried his hardest to find something the matter with us. He must’ve been looking for someone for he was sure we had a radio and then he wanted to see Uncle Walter’s movie camera and see what was going on inside of it.

Uncle’s special passport didn’t seem to make much difference.

He even showed his letters from Sec. Wallace with the United States seal on them. He finally couldn’t find anything wrong with us and had to let us go on, thank goodness. Glorious sunset of brilliant reds. I slept for an hour and soon we were in Tunis. Rooms in the Majestic Hotel, delicious dinner, and bed.

Le Kef (El Kef).Photo credit: Getty images

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry. Exploring the Ancient Ruins of Djemila

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

Djémila, originally known as Cuicul, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in northern Algeria, about 900 meters above sea level in the mountains of the Sétif Province.

Photo credit: Viator.com

January 25, Wednesday—off fairly early to Djemila, an old Roman city in ruins where Uncle had an appointment with the directoress.

The highway divided a barren plain with a few Roman ruins of aqueduct and low rolling hills, the soil washed off and heavy black rock exposed. A few flocks of sheep grazed on stone and in the distance rose the snow-capped peaks of the Little Atlas.

As we drove on, the scenery became more desolate and dreary with the rocky mountains gouged with erosion gullies. In this utter desolation of today rose the low ruins of Djemila, one of the most important of the old Roman cities.

In the grounds, luxuriant trees flourished, but other than these few, the landscape was utterly devoid of vegetation. The Christian quarter was in quite good condition for ruins. The houses were not well made for their whole emphasis had been on the church and baptistry. A donkey was grazing in the church. The baptistery font was quite beautiful. There were niches with seats for 36 and two periods a year in which baptism took place. The fish which was the emblem of Christianity was used greatly.

Opposite the church the pagan quarter had, it is supposed, built elaborate baths and a Temple to Bacchus, to annoy. One figure estimates the inhabitants at 7000 or 8000 and another at 10,000 or 11,000, which seems more accurate to me from the size of the town. It was destroyed by the Vandals in 450 A.D., and then buried by erosion from the surrounding hills.

The theater and stage were in excellent condition as we looked down on them. Part of the city was still unexcavated and part was in the process. In one place a pillar below the level of the city indicates a lower, older city underneath. There were two forums, for the city was too large for just one.

A large triumphant arch and temple dominates the scene with many steps leading to the entrance. There were huge storage bins for grain and olive oil awaiting shipment to Rome. All taxes were paid in oil and grain. To keep the bins dry the floors were supported by bricks so that they did not come in contact with the earth.

In the excavation 30 wagon loads of olive pits were removed, not an olive tree is left. The Arabs destroyed them all. They still ask what good a tree is.

When the directoress came some 20 years ago, the Capital building was entirely covered and an Arab family had a little mud hovel lived there.

Now it is excavated and one can see again the beautiful granite stones with which it was made. There are remains of central heating systems for the capital and Temple of Jupiter. In the huge market square a measurement table for wheat and oil stands. Heated walls in the baths.

Visited the prison and then to the one hotel for a huge long lunch. We waited around for Uncle to get pictures and at last at 3:30 we were off for Constantine.

Sunset was beautiful and tinged the hills a lovely color. Stayed at the Certa Hotel. Dinner and bed.

The Trouble with Being a Dignitary

Walter Lowdermilk was recruited by Rexford Tugwell in 1933 to serve as the second-in-command of the new Soil Erosion Service, later called the Soil Conservation Service. In 1938, he was tasked with studying how soil affects human life and well-being. He spent two years exploring lands once ruled by the Romans to find answers.

This is from a letter sent by diplomatic pouch to Hugh H. Bennett the Chief of the Soil Conservation Service. Walter was nominally second in command. The letter was sent somewhere around December, 1938, while he was in Fascist Italy. He champs at the bit to do fieldwork, but alas, “our time is not our own.”

We arrived in Rome about noon amidst many surging ideas and impressions. We proceeded directly to the American Embassy where we were expected. We found a big batch of mail and also to our keen regret that Cohee had left only a few days before. We had hoped to see him in Rome, and would have done so had we not been delayed by the slight accident with the car in France, mentioned in my last letter.

We called on Mr. Clyde Marquis at the International Institute of Agriculture and found a warm welcome. Mr. Marquis furnished us an office so that we could have a place to open out our papers and do some work. The Embassy began negotiations for our visit to typical areas of reclamation and torrent control indicated in our itinerary.

A new rule has gone into effect in Italy which requires that outside contacts shall be made through the Ministry of Popular Culture. We found the Minister Alfieri very cordial and willing to make arrangements for a visit to typical works with officials of the Ministry of Agriculture. It took three days for this to be worked out. In fact a man was sent to North Italy to work out a schedule for my visit. With the writing of this letter we are setting off by train to meet the Presidente del Magistrato delle Acque at Venice tonight.

We have had to fit our plans to the customs of the country. The eating habits of Europeans does not fit field work. For breakfast one has a cup of coffee and a roll, a little butter, and a dab of jam if you insist on it. When one tries to get more it causes a commotion in the management. One morning we attempted to get some eggs in addition to our breakfast. The waiter had to go to see the manager about them; the manager came to us and after considerable discussion we finally got boiled eggs, so we have dropped into the way of the country in taking a very meager breakfast. When we go out to the field we are not well fortified for mountain climbing. But then the continental makes up for it by making sure you arrive at a restaurant to his special liking at noon or one o’clock. Then he insists on a lunch which in reality is the heaviest meal of the day. To this important repast he devotes not less than two hours, and usually three; thus in these short days the very heart of the day, and the best time of the day for photographing, is used up within the walls of some restaurant. I would prefer to have a heavier breakfast and take sandwiches out into the field, or even do without lunch and make up for it at the evening meal. It would not be worth the effort, however, to bring about such a change of custom of the officers with whom we have been making our field trips. For once we have placed ourselves in the hands of the officials responsible for conducting us to places of special interest – our time is not our own. From early to late we are in the hands of officials who feel it their duty to entertain us to the limit. So by the time we get to bed at eleven or twelve at night we are pretty well worn out. We do get a large amount of information this way, but we would much prefer to have our evenings so as to write up more of the information, and prepare for the following day. But this is a part of the game which we have to play and we do not complain about it.

Traveling with French and Roman officials has its thrills. Never have we traveled so fast by automobile. Several times we have been driven by the officials in their cars or by their drivers, at more than 80 miles an hour on roads that I would not think of driving faster than 50 miles. The driver blasts out the way for his car with his horn. With an almost continuous hooting of his horn he warns numerous pedestrians and cyclists of the oncoming car. I am yet unable to explain why more people are not killed on these highways. One driver had two horns on his car, each with a different pitch; his one ambition in life was to travel as fast as the road would let him; he warned pedestrians and cyclists by hooting first one horn and then the other, and if necessary both at the same time, to blast the way for his speeding automobile. Some of these drives have been really breath taking as we have whirled around curves over precipitous slopes overlooking valleys or lakes far below. We must say that these professional drivers, or chauffeurs, do manage to make time over the highways.

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry. Algeria:: January 24, 1939

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 24—had breakfast in the bar with row upon row of bottles staring us in the face, packed the car which had been garaged in the stable with cows and sheep, and were off with the wind still with us. Our road wound among the mountains covered with cork and all at once we were excited to see a whole family of monkeys run across the highway and swing into the branches of the trees above. We kept our eyes peeled for more monkeys and while we came to Pio des Singes and Valles des Singes, still we saw no more of those funny animals.

Out of the mountains and a fertile valley, we were amazed at the size of the old olive trees. Uncle Walter estimated that the diameter of many was 3 feet. Past ruins of an old Roman aqueduct. At Il Matin, Miss Weisner met us and let the way up to the mission station over bumpy dirt roads. When we reached the garage, an Arab man and the mission donkey met us and with Wester on the little beast’s back and rest of us with canes, we started the steep climb up the Rocky, muddy path to the mission. We passed through little villages of mud homes and thatched roofs or tile. Dirty little hovels in which people lived in a small room, windowless, with a fire to cook with in the middle of the room and to furnish light and heat. The natives are very colorful. The women don’t wear veils and all greeted us with a smiling “Bonjour” as we passed. It was about a 20 or 30 min. walk to the mission, but we enjoyed every step.

The Kabyles are a tribe of the Berbers of whom history knows little. They are not Arabs. It is thought they go clear back to the caveman days. “Barbary Coast” comes from the Berbers. They believe that once a spring is tapped and the water starts to flow the blood of a freshly killed ox must run into the water when it first reaches the surface or the well will not be good. In the instance of one well, the blood did not run in and the water was not good. It is very strong with minerals, even dogs will not touch it. It has an odor. We had tea and cookies and visited the dispensary. A native had just brought in her little child with a dirty scarf around its ankle. The poor child whimpered and revealed an ugly hole filled with pus on her ankle. It was a grisly sight and the dirty mother wiped off the pus with the dirty scarf. That was the final straw. We copied poems until our couscous lunch which was delicious and was prepared by an excellent native cook can. In the afternoon we visited the little girls school. They were such a colorful picture, more like gypsy children (tattooed foreheads). They have a bath once a week at school. Sang us two songs one in Maybile and one in French. Miss Weisner told us about Moulu, her Arab man, who was so proud of a day’s work he did in the garden. The mission garden was terraced to keep the soil from washing away and Moulu spent the entire day taking out a terrorist and smoothing it out and planting the onions and rose up and down! Olives are the main industry. One man may own the ground around a tree, another the tree. Sometimes one branch belongs to one native and another to another when it is time to pick the olives the chief gives the signal and everybody starts work at once. After several days they have a big couscous feast and do not work. Then the signal is given again and work recommences. In this way everyone is busy and no olives are snitched. The olives are pressed in a crude stone press pushed either by a donkey or a woman. The women refine it by letting the oil run through their fingers. We smelled some and it looked and smelled awful. The women looked 70 when they’re really not more than 40. It must be an awful life. It just tears my heart to see them. More tea and then down the mountainside to the car. It was almost dark when we got there. Our destination was Setif and the road let us by the foaming, frothing Mediterranean dashing against rocky cliffs. I do wish it might have been light. Then we turned inland down a rocky gorge. I dozed half of the time and it was almost 10 PM when we reached Setif. To bed immediately.

Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary entry. Algeria: January 20-23, 1939

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

I believe the Lowdermilk party is in Algeria in these entries. – NB

January 20, Saturday—Packing in earnest and after lunch gathering observations together and getting off to the beach house for the weekend. It was cloudy overhead, but that didn’t bother us. When we arrived the native Spanish woman nearby have the house warm in the beds made and everything was most cheerful. Had a good hot supper and then bed.

January 22—Sunday—A real breakfast, bacon, eggs, toast, fruit and coffee, (no “petit de jeuner.”) The native woman came in and cleaned up and Wester and I took a long walk down the sandy beach. It had been very windy and stormy the night before—several birds and a dead goat had been washed ashore. The calm Mediterranean of several days before was foaming, frothing and pounding against the shore. We went wading in the water was surprisingly warm. Then we went wandering in a pine woods where interlaced branches above formed a green canopy, dense and brown with many pinecones. It was lovely with the wind in the trees and the surging beat of the waves on the shore. Back at the Villa Mr. Abry had arrived after wandering for more than an hour and a half trying to find us and soon dinner was ready. The woman came again after lunch and cleaned up. Her husband was very sick and they didn’t have any money and she was most anxious to earn and we were a good source. All of us went for a run down and back the beach and wading again. I had rolled up my slacks and was wandering around having a good time. When I started to come in I suddenly went down and then up on some hidden rocks and then down again in a most ungraceful and uncomfortable position. However, I didn’t fall in! But I got an awful bruise on one of my toes. We also took out the boat, Mr. Abry rowed, Billy sat behind him and I sat in the prow. We couldn’t get beyond the waves they were so strong, but we had a wonderful time. Once we didn’t strike a wave right and the water just poured into the boat and soaked my sweater and slacks and pajamas I was wearing underneath. We drifted several houses below the boathouse, and so had a dreadful time getting the boat beached, and back to the boathouse. Had to drag and pull it along the short just in the water. Billy fell in. Mac and Wester were the only dry ones and since it was sunset we all went in and changed. The dog, playing, pushed my slacks leg in the fire and burned a hole inside the cuff before they could be rescued. How to pick up dinner and took Mr. Apri partway into his boss where he returned to Algeria and took a train back to Tunis. While at the Villa I read “The Garden of Allah” in spare moments, a most peculiar book.

January 23, Monday—the native woman got breakfast as we packed. Uncle gave her Fr.100 and the poor woman burst out crying and kissed his hand. They had really been in desperate straits. Back to Algiers to say goodbye to Miss Van dine and thank her for the use of the Villa, get some things and start on our way into La Grande Kaebylie. We had a fruit lunch in the car as we went along. Drove through the rocky gorges of the Ysser which is a very muddy river, and into the mountains of La Grande Kaebylie. Fruit trees were in blossom, field screen, dainty green leaves beginning to burst forth on old dead appearing trees. In the little villages the Berbers wrapped in their hooded white burnooses were seated upon mats in the sun were playing a form of dominoes or dice. Once in a while we would come on an old gnarled olive tree, roots exposed and barren rocky soil beneath. Perhaps they date back to the time of the Romans. Flocks of sheep, dirty and with peers like cocker spaniels graze on seemingly nothing. What cultivation there was was on the steep hills, no terraces and mainly up-and-down. Consequently erosion cultures were ruining the hills and washing away the soil. Many fig orchards. Both the ruined land and hills, and tiny mud and thatch hovels in which these poor people live, presented a dreary and depressing sight. About dusk we entered large cork forests. A terrifically strong gale accompanied us now. At 3000 feet elevation in the midst of forest and wind, we were grateful to find hotel Lambert and rooms for the night. (And we thought we would have to go on to Bougie and that was still about 50 km) had a good meal and sleep.

January 19, 1938, Enter Mecktube

Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary

January 19, Thursday—Wrote. Mdm. and monsieur Aubere had lunch with us and we afterward down town and shopped. Aunt Inez bought a zircon ring that looks like a huge diamond. Mac bought a beauty of a real diamond for some girl in the future and Wester, Billy and I acquired a puppy. A ragged Arab was holding a tiny little puppy which was shivering and trembling and we were so taken with a little thing that we bought him for Fr.30 ($.90). I don’t think he is more than a week old but he knows how to lap up milk. We have called him Mecktube which is “it is written” in Arabian, and it certainly fits this little baby. He is adorable. Even Uncle Walter succumbed to his charms. We got a bottle and a nipple and so far Billy M Wester have helped write well in looking after him. Dinner was quite hilarious for Aunt Inez flaunted her new brilliant ring under Uncle’s eye and quite caused a scene of surprise. Uncle knew Aunt Inez had been looking at diamonds and pricing them, so he was quite floored with what he saw. However, a zircon, while a real stone, had no words at all compared with the diamond. After dinner I read for quite some time and gave Mecktube some “doodies” when I came up. Wester and I had him in our room and we were up several times in the night—I hope it doesn’t keep up too long.