“Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary
January 1, 1939
Mac, Mr. Abry (a young Frenchman sent by France to show Walter the French projects of Tunisia) and myself were up early for breakfast and then off to see the native quarter. The shops or souks as the Arabs call them, were fascinating. Entirely covered overhead we walked down narrow cobblestone streets with bright attractive shops on either side and were invited into each shop by the owner who sat outside and shouted to the passerby trying to entice someone inside. Mac went back early but Mr. Abry and myself went on wandering around. We had picked up an Arab guide who spoke French and English and he was really showing us the town. We came out of the Casbah upon a swarming crowd of Arabs.
The Arab prince had died the day before and the bey (native ruler who works with France) and the French governor were going to pass by with the casket on their way to the palace. It was a very quiet crowd. Soon the chanting, weird wailing of the mourners could be heard and after they had passed the bey and governor walked by. The bey was natively dressed—had a beard was a very kind looking old gentleman. The governor was in mourning clothes behind him the casket was carried by several natives on either side with the prince’s dress clothes laid out on top.
Our guide took us through the better souks and I smelled some oriental perfume which was not bad. We then arrived back in town.
The Kelly’s took us out to Carthage for lunch and to see the ruins of what remained of a great city. I had developed a sore throat and so curled up on the porch of the restaurant and while the rest ate I baked in the sun and had a wonderful view of blue sparkling sea below, blue, blue sky above, palm trees and white, white homes along the coast. It was lovely.
The ruins of the city are spread out over quite an area in an old temple was the first stop. Nothing remained but a few marble pillars and a wonderful view of the sea. The old amphitheater and Greek theater were in equal ruins. The Romans certainly hated Hannibal and feared his city and laid waste to it they conquered. Many pieces of marble and statuary were taken as far north as Genoa and Pisa. Back to the hotel for a hot water bottle in bed for me and dinner for the rest.
Nullius in Verba 