“Elizabeth Moody, age nineteen and very beautiful, accompanied her Uncle, Dr. Walter C. Lowdermilk and family on an official trip for the United States government, using their personal car and paying their own expenses, to study old Roman lands for the benefit of the US soil conservation service, and American farmers to find out what could be [learned] of the agricultural successes and failures of the past.” – Forward to Lowdermilk’s niece’s diary
Djémila, originally known as Cuicul, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located in northern Algeria, about 900 meters above sea level in the mountains of the Sétif Province.
Photo credit: Viator.com
January 25, Wednesday—off fairly early to Djemila, an old Roman city in ruins where Uncle had an appointment with the directoress.
The highway divided a barren plain with a few Roman ruins of aqueduct and low rolling hills, the soil washed off and heavy black rock exposed. A few flocks of sheep grazed on stone and in the distance rose the snow-capped peaks of the Little Atlas.
As we drove on, the scenery became more desolate and dreary with the rocky mountains gouged with erosion gullies. In this utter desolation of today rose the low ruins of Djemila, one of the most important of the old Roman cities.
In the grounds, luxuriant trees flourished, but other than these few, the landscape was utterly devoid of vegetation. The Christian quarter was in quite good condition for ruins. The houses were not well made for their whole emphasis had been on the church and baptistry. A donkey was grazing in the church. The baptistery font was quite beautiful. There were niches with seats for 36 and two periods a year in which baptism took place. The fish which was the emblem of Christianity was used greatly.
Opposite the church the pagan quarter had, it is supposed, built elaborate baths and a Temple to Bacchus, to annoy. One figure estimates the inhabitants at 7000 or 8000 and another at 10,000 or 11,000, which seems more accurate to me from the size of the town. It was destroyed by the Vandals in 450 A.D., and then buried by erosion from the surrounding hills.
The theater and stage were in excellent condition as we looked down on them. Part of the city was still unexcavated and part was in the process. In one place a pillar below the level of the city indicates a lower, older city underneath. There were two forums, for the city was too large for just one.
A large triumphant arch and temple dominates the scene with many steps leading to the entrance. There were huge storage bins for grain and olive oil awaiting shipment to Rome. All taxes were paid in oil and grain. To keep the bins dry the floors were supported by bricks so that they did not come in contact with the earth.
In the excavation 30 wagon loads of olive pits were removed, not an olive tree is left. The Arabs destroyed them all. They still ask what good a tree is.
When the directoress came some 20 years ago, the Capital building was entirely covered and an Arab family had a little mud hovel lived there.
Now it is excavated and one can see again the beautiful granite stones with which it was made. There are remains of central heating systems for the capital and Temple of Jupiter. In the huge market square a measurement table for wheat and oil stands. Heated walls in the baths.
Visited the prison and then to the one hotel for a huge long lunch. We waited around for Uncle to get pictures and at last at 3:30 we were off for Constantine.
Sunset was beautiful and tinged the hills a lovely color. Stayed at the Certa Hotel. Dinner and bed.
Nullius in Verba 